Friday, July 2, 2010

Thoughts on 肯德基

Since the beginning of DSIC, one of the main topics of our tests/classes/conversations with teachers has been the differences between Chinese and American culture (文化). So, naturally I think about the topic a fair amount (because the bulk of my new vocabulary deals with it ;) ) I've touched on it in my last post, but lately I've been noticing specifically American influence through the medium of 快餐 (fast food). Before I get into it, I ought to first say that if you want to eat Chinese food in Beijing you generally have three options, cook it yourself, eat in a sit-down restaurant, or grab some quick dumplings from a somewhat sketchy street cart. So far I love it: the last two are for me and I choose between them based on how much work I have or if I want to get some time in with my friends. But many students here actually cook for themselves. In the US, this is unthought of: at college its generally either meal plan or ramen noodles. But, people here often manage to cook multiple elaborate dishes to eat with their friends on a normal weeknight. Its the cheapest, and I might be speaking too early but it also looks the most delicious.
While fast food is not the same here as it is in the US (I have yet to see a drive-through and the food is actually comparably expensive), it seems to be spreading pretty widely across the country. McDonalds is pretty common but the most ubiquitous and successful chain is clearly Kentucky Fried Chicken. In Beijing it seems impossible to go for more than a half mile without seeing the smiling face of Colonel Sanders. Having been in the country since 1987, the longest of any foreign-based food chain, KFC rules the market here, which seems a little strange from an American perspective because I can't think of very many KFCs in my vicinity in Atlanta, and I don't think I've ever seen one in New Haven. Indeed after looking at a few articles I discovered that KFC, that by 2003 in China was building over 250 new locations a year, has stagnating sales in the US. How to reconcile this? The KFC in China is a different animal entirely. After visiting KFC a few times for some late night "research," my friends and I found a menu unlike the US version: the menu focused on chicken sandwiches(all made from dark meat, a Chinese preference) and sides were geared much more toward local vegetables rather than slaw, macaroni, and various fried sundries. And while it is popular for its novel taste, it does not have the same problem as in the US: it isn't cheap, so low income Chinese actually end up eating healthier, cheaper options.
After seeing this, I felt immediately that the question of undue negative American cultural influence through fast food ought to be dismissed as out of hand. Of course many elements of culure show up here and everywhere else, but the closer you look when you visit, the more superficial the resemblance is. If I had a little bit more time right now (and if my parents weren't reading this), the fast food topic dovetails into a few others, one of the most interesting being the general sense of sexuality here. On the surface everyone dresses and acts western, but if you ask them about their opinions you'll hear a whole different story based on deeply held cultural traditions that don't seem to be going away any time soon.
more later,
Alex

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